How to Grow Garlic at Home: A Complete, Beginner-Friendly Guide
If you love cooking with garlic, growing your own is one of the most rewarding gardening projects you can take on. The flavor is richer, the aroma is stronger, and the satisfaction of pulling a full bulb out of the soil is unbeatable.
The best part? Garlic is surprisingly easy to grow. With just a little preparation in the fall, you can harvest big, beautiful bulbs by next summer.
This combined guide walks you through everything you need to know—from choosing the right type of garlic to planting, caring, harvesting, and curing it for long-term storage.
Understanding Garlic Varieties
Garlic comes in two main types, and choosing the right one for your climate makes all the difference.
Hardneck Garlic
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Best for colder climates (Zones 1–6)
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Produces a hard central stalk called a scape
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Strong, complex flavor
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Fewer cloves, but larger
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Shorter storage life (4–6 months)
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Bonus: produces delicious, edible scapes
Softneck Garlic
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Ideal for warmer climates (Zones 7–12)
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Flexible stems you can braid
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More cloves per bulb, but smaller
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Classic, mild garlic flavor
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Excellent storage life (9–12 months)
Many gardeners experiment with several varieties
each year to find their favorites. Some even grow Elephant garlic—technically not a “true” garlic, but loved for its massive bulbs and mild taste.
When to Plant Garlic
Garlic is traditionally planted in the fall, about 3–5 weeks before the first hard frost. This timing allows the cloves to develop strong roots before winter.
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Cold regions (Zones 1–6): Late September to late October
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Warm regions (Zones 7–12): Late October to December
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Very warm climates: February–March (if winters are mild)
While spring planting is possible, fall planting produces far bigger bulbs and healthier plants.
Why Fall Planting Works Best
Garlic thrives with a natural cold period (called cold stratification). Fall planting allows:
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Strong root development before winter
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Larger bulb formation in spring and summer
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Reduced pest and disease pressure
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Better adaptation to your climate
Think of it as putting the garlic “to sleep” for the winter so it can explode with growth in the spring.
How Much Garlic Should You Plant?
Garlic multiplies quickly—this is part of the fun!
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1 head = 10–15 cloves
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Each clove = 1 brand-new full bulb at harvest
If you plant 10 heads’ worth of cloves, you may end up with over 100 bulbs. That’s enough for cooking, storing, and even gifting.
Preparing for Planting
1. Choose a Sunny Location
Garlic needs 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Raised beds, garden rows, or large containers all work as long as the soil drains well.
2. Prepare the Soil
Garlic hates waterlogged soil. Aim for loose, sandy, or loamy soil.
Improve your soil with:
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Compost
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Aged manure
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Balanced vegetable fertilizer
Preparing Your Garlic Cloves
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Keep bulbs whole until planting day
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Gently separate the cloves, keeping the papery skins on
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Use the largest, healthiest cloves for planting
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Save small cloves for cooking
How to Plant Garlic (Step-by-Step)
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Enrich the soil
Mix in compost or an all-purpose garden fertilizer. -
Dig planting holes or rows
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Depth: 2–3 inches
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Spacing: 4–6 inches between cloves
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Rows: 10–12 inches apart
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Place cloves upright
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Pointed end up
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Flat basal plate down
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Cover with soil and gently firm it down.
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Water once to settle everything in place.
Mulch for Winter Protection
After planting, cover the bed with 4–6 inches of mulch such as:
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Straw (best choice)
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Shredded leaves
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Grass clippings
Avoid hay, which contains seeds and will create a serious weed problem.
If winter winds are strong, you can lay a piece of light fencing on top to keep mulch from blowing away.
Caring for Garlic Through the Seasons
Winter
Do nothing—your garlic is sleeping and growing roots.
Spring
As temperatures warm, green shoots will push through the mulch.
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Remove any fencing
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Thin the mulch a bit, but keep a layer to suppress weeds
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Water weekly if rain is scarce (about 1 inch per week)
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Feed with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer when shoots are 6 inches tall
Hardneck scapes will appear in early summer—cut them off so the plant puts energy into bulb growth. Scapes are delicious in pesto, stir-fries, and grilling.
Stop watering 3–4 weeks before harvest to help bulbs cure naturally in the soil.
When and How to Harvest Garlic
Garlic is usually ready mid-to-late summer (July–August).
Signs it’s harvest time:
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Bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of leaves are brown
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Upper leaves still green
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Bulbs look fully formed when you test-dig one
Carefully loosen the soil with a garden fork and lift each plant—don’t pull by the stem.
Do not wash the bulbs. Brush off loose soil and keep stems and roots attached.
Curing Your Garlic
Proper curing ensures long storage life.
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Hang garlic in bundles of 5–10, or lay on racks.
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Keep in a well-ventilated, shady, dry place.
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Cure for 3–6 weeks.
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Once dry:
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Trim stems to 1–2 inches (or braid softneck stems)
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Cut roots short
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Brush off remaining soil gently
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Store in a cool, dark, airy place—mesh bags, wire baskets, or open wooden crates work perfectly. Do not refrigerate.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I plant grocery store garlic?
It’s not recommended. Store garlic is often treated to prevent sprouting and may not suit your climate. Use certified seed garlic.
Can I plant garlic in the spring?
Yes, but expect smaller bulbs. Fall planting is always better.
Are purple garlic bulbs safe to eat?
Absolutely. Many hardneck varieties naturally have purple stripes.
How many bulbs will I get?
One clove = one bulb. Simple and satisfying.
Growing garlic is easy, low-maintenance, and highly rewarding. With a little fall preparation and basic care in spring, you’ll end up with a harvest that tastes richer and fresher than anything from the store.
Whether you’re growing a small batch or filling multiple beds, garlic will quickly become one of your favorite crops—and one you’ll plant year after year.